Guides › Fabric composition
How to read a clothing label
The composition label is the most honest thing about a piece of clothing: a shop can call a jumper "luxurious", but it can't change the percentages on the label. Here is what they tell you before you pay.
What the label must say
In the European Union fibre composition is governed by Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011. The seller has to give the fibre names and their share by weight, in the language of the country it sells in, and an online shop has to show it before you buy. The names are standardised, so "viscose" in one shop means the same as in another. An online shop that doesn't list the composition is a bad sign.
Order matters: fibres are listed from the largest share down. A "wool coat" labelled "60% polyester, 30% wool, 10% other fibres" is, in practice, a polyester coat.
Natural fibres
| Fibre | Strengths | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Wool (including merino) | Stays warm even slightly damp, resists odours, often just needs airing rather than washing. Merino is fine and doesn't itch. | Can felt in water that is too warm and with friction. Wash cool, dry flat. |
| Cashmere | Very soft and warm for its weight. | Quality varies a lot. Cheap, loosely knitted cashmere pills fast. Feel it and check the knit is dense. |
| Cotton | Breathable, kind to skin, easy to wash. | Dries slowly and creases. Long-staple cotton (such as Pima or Egyptian) is smoother and lasts longer. |
| Linen | Very strong, cool in the heat, softer with every wash. | Creases, which is its charm, not a flaw. |
| Silk | Light, smooth, good at regulating temperature. | Delicate: hand wash or dry clean, keep it out of the sun when drying. |
Cellulose fibres (man-made, but from wood)
- Viscose: drapes beautifully and feels close to silk, but it weakens when wet and can shrink. Wash gently, don't wring.
- Modal: similar to viscose, softer and better at surviving the wash.
- Lyocell (known from the TENCEL™ brand): stronger than viscose, wet or dry. It is made in a loop in which most of the solvent is recovered.
Synthetic fibres
- Polyester: durable, quick-drying, crease-resistant. Breathes less, holds on to sweat odour more easily and sheds microfibres in the wash.
- Polyamide (nylon): very resistant to abrasion. In socks or coats a small share makes the piece last longer.
- Elastane: 1 to 5% gives jeans and knits their stretch. It loses its spring with time and heat, so pieces with a lot of it can bag out.
- Acrylic: a cheap stand-in for wool, warm but quick to pill and full of static.
Blends: when they make sense
A blend is not always the maker cutting costs. It can be deliberate:
- 80% wool, 20% polyamide in a coat: the wool keeps you warm, the polyamide protects elbows and pockets from wear.
- 98% cotton, 2% elastane in jeans: comfort without losing the character of denim.
- Linen with cotton: creases less than pure linen.
The warning sign is a noble fibre in the name but not in the composition: a “cashmere blend” jumper with 5% cashmere is a jumper made of something else.
"Organic" and "recycled": what the certificates mean
- GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard): organically grown fibres, checked through the whole production chain. The "organic" label needs at least 95% such fibres, "made with organic" at least 70%.
- GRS (Global Recycled Standard): confirms the recycled content, with checks on later production steps. A GRS label on a product needs at least 50% recycled material.
- Without a certificate, "eco" on a label is only a claim. Check whether the shop gives the certificate number or the body that issued it.
A quick test before you buy
- Read the composition before you look at the price.
- Compare the product name with the composition.
- Think about how often you will wear it and how you will wash it.
- Check whether something at a similar price is made of a better fabric.
Le Clair shows the composition whenever the shop gives it, and suggests pieces from the same category, at a similar price, with more natural fibres. Plus the price history, so you know whether now is a good time to buy.
Discover in Le Clair